Graz

Austria's second city, a university town with a UNESCO-listed old town of red roofs and Renaissance courtyards below the Schlossberg and its clock tower, Baroque Eggenberg Palace, and the blue "friendly alien" Kunsthaus and the island in the Mur by the river. Relaxed, cheaper than Vienna or Salzburg, and a food city: pumpkin-seed oil, market stalls and a strong vegetarian scene. About 2.5 hours from Vienna by train; the new Koralm line reaches Klagenfurt in about 45 minutes.

Highlights

• Schlossberg clock tower over the red roofs
• Renaissance Landhaus courtyard
• Eggenberg Palace and its peacock garden
• Kunsthaus "friendly alien" and the Murinsel
• Styrian Armoury
• Farmers' markets and pumpkin-seed oil

Things to do

• Schlossberg by the lift or steps, and the clock towerMorning · 2h
• Old town walk and the Landhaus courtyardMorning · 2h
• Eggenberg Palace and gardensAfternoon · 2h 30m
• Kunsthaus and the MurinselAfternoon · 1h 30m
• Day out on the South Styrian wine roadMorning · 6h

Tours & tickets

When to go

Best time: April – October; Advent for the markets

• Aufsteirern — Graz's folk festival on a September weekend: Styrian music, costume and food stalls through the old town squares.
• Christmas markets — From mid or late November to 23-26 December: Vienna's on the Rathausplatz, at Schönbrunn and the Belvedere, Salzburg's on the Domplatz, Innsbruck's under the Golden Roof, and the Wolfgangsee's on Advent weekends. Mulled wine (Glühwein, or alcohol-free Kinderpunsch), roasted chestnuts and crafts; rooms in Vienna and Salzburg fill on Advent weekends.