Greece / The Ionian Islands / KefaloniaKefalonia
Myrtos Beach, Sea Caves and Mountain Roads
The largest Ionian island, mountainous and green: Myrtos beach under white cliffs, the underground lake of Melissani entered by rowing boat, the Drogarati cave, pastel Fiskardo and Assos, and Mount Ainos with its fir forest. The setting of Captain Corelli's Mandolin. Roads are steep and slow; a hire car is the way round. Flights from Athens take under an hour; KTEL coaches from Athens use the Kyllini–Poros ferry. In summer a ferry links it to Zakynthos. Resorts close in winter.
Highlights
- Myrtos beach from the cliff road
- Rowing boat on the Melissani cave lake
- Assos and its castle
- Fiskardo harbour
- Antisamos beach
- Boat day to Ithaca
Things to do
- Melissani and Drogarati cavesMay–OctMorning · 3h
- Myrtos beach and Assos villageAfternoon · 5h
- Fiskardo and the north coast driveMorning · 6h
- Hike on Mount AinosMorning · 4h
- Boat day to IthacaMorning · 8h
Tours & tickets
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When to go
Best time: May – June, September – October
Worth knowing
Wildfire Season
From July to September hot, dry winds spread wildfires in Attica, the Peloponnese, Halkidiki and the islands; in 2023 thousands of tourists were evacuated from resorts on Rhodes. Follow the 112 emergency text alerts (sent in English), obey road closures and evacuation orders, never light a fire or barbecue outdoors, and check the fire-risk map before hiking. Travel insurance should cover cancellations.
Worth knowing
Winter: Fast Boats Stop, Many Hotels Close
From November to March the high-speed ferries stop, island-to-island boats run a few times a week, and most resort hotels, beach bars and boat tours close. The towns stay open with some hotels and tavernas, the conventional ferries and the flights from Athens keep running, and storms can still cancel sailings: keep a spare day before a flight home.
Worth knowing
Mid-August: Greeks on Holiday
The week around 15 August (the Assumption) is the peak of the Greek holidays: ferries from Piraeus and Rafina and island rooms are booked out weeks ahead, and prices are the year's highest. Book every boat and bed early, or come in June or September.
- Orthodox Easter (Pascha) — Greece's biggest festival: candlelit Good Friday processions, the midnight Resurrection service on Saturday with fireworks and church bells, and lamb roasts on Sunday. Corfu's is the most famous, with clay pots thrown from balconies on Holy Saturday morning. Greeks travel home, so ferries, flights and hotels fill, and shops, museums and sites close or shorten hours from Good Friday to Easter Monday. Book well ahead.
- Dekapentavgoustos (the Assumption) — The feast of the Virgin Mary and the peak of the Greek summer holiday: village festivals (panigiria) with music and food the night before, a great pilgrimage to Paros' Church of a Hundred Doors, and every ferry and island room full in the week around it. Athens empties and many of its shops close.