Lyon

France's third city, two hours from Paris by TGV and the rail crossroads for the Alps and Provence. Renaissance Vieux Lyon with its hidden traboule passages, the basilica and Roman theatres on Fourvière hill, bouchon restaurants and the Halles Paul Bocuse food market. The Fête des Lumières lights the city for four nights around 8 December. Bouchon food is meat-heavy; vegetarians do better in the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'île cafés.

Highlights

• Traboules of Vieux Lyon
• Fourvière basilica and city view
• Roman theatres
• Lunch in a bouchon
• Les Halles Paul Bocuse
• Croix-Rousse murals
• Musée des Confluences
• Fête des Lumières in December

Things to do

• Vieux Lyon and the traboulesMorning · 2h 30m
• Funicular to Fourvière: basilica and Roman theatresAfternoon · 2h 30m
• Les Halles Paul Bocuse tastingMorning · 1h 30m
• Bouchon dinnerEvening · 2h
• Musée des ConfluencesAfternoon · 2h
• Croix-Rousse murals and silk-workers' quarterAfternoon · 2h

Tours & tickets

When to go

Best time: April – June, September – October; early December for the Fête des Lumières

• Bastille Day (Fête nationale) — France's national day: a military parade on the Champs-Élysées in the morning and fireworks at the Eiffel Tower at night, with crowds on the Champ de Mars from the afternoon. Carcassonne's fireworks over La Cité are among the biggest in the country. Banks and many shops close; trains run.
• Fête de la Musique — Free music on streets, squares and bar terraces all evening and night in every town, on the longest day. Public transport runs late in Paris; streets in the centres are packed.
• Fête des Lumières — Lyon's festival of lights: four nights round 8 December of light shows on the cathedral, the Place des Terreaux and the old town. Free, very crowded (the centre is pedestrian-only and some metro stations close); rooms sell out months ahead.