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Sarlat-la-Canéda (Dordogne)
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Sarlat-la-Canéda (Dordogne)

Golden-Stone Town, Cliff Castles and Prehistoric Cave Art

3 daysIdeal stay₹8,520From / night₹2,770Food / day₹2,450Entry

A golden-stone medieval town in the Périgord Noir and the base for the Dordogne valley: a car-free old centre of 14th-17th-century mansions with a big Saturday market, and within 30-40 minutes the cliff villages and castles of La Roque-Gageac, Beynac and Castelnaud, the hanging gardens of Marqueyssac, canoe trips under the cliffs, and the prehistoric art of the Vézère valley: Lascaux IV, the full-size replica of the Lascaux paintings at Montignac, and Font-de-Gaume at Les Eyzies, one of the few caves with original painted bison still open to small, booked groups. Rocamadour's cliff sanctuary is about an hour away. TER trains from Bordeaux take about 2 h 20-2 h 40; a car is close to essential for the valley. Foie gras, duck, walnuts and truffles; vegetarians do best at the markets.

Highlights

  • Saturday market in the old town
  • Lascaux IV cave-art replica
  • Font-de-Gaume's original painted cave
  • Canoeing under the cliffs of La Roque-Gageac
  • Château de Beynac and Castelnaud
  • Hanging gardens of Marqueyssac
  • Rocamadour on its cliff
  • Duck, walnuts and black truffles

Things to do

  • Sarlat old town and its marketMorning · 2h 30m
  • Lascaux IV: the full-size replica of the cave paintingsMorning · 2h 30m
  • Font-de-Gaume painted cave (booked ahead) and the Les Eyzies prehistory museumAfternoon · 3h
  • Canoe down the Dordogne past La Roque-Gageac and BeynacApr–OctMorning · 3h
  • Hanging gardens of MarqueyssacAfternoon · 2h
  • Château de Beynac and the Castelnaud castle museumAfternoon · 3h
  • Gabarre river boat at La Roque-GageacApr–OctAfternoon · 1h
  • Rocamadour, the cliff sanctuaryMorning · 5h
  • Périgord dinner: duck, walnuts and trufflesEvening · 2h
  • Sarlat's lamplit lanes after darkEvening · 1h

Tours & tickets

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When to go

Best time: April – June, September – October

Heads up

Dordogne in Winter: Canoes and Some Sights Closed

Canoe hire on the Dordogne runs from about April to October, and some castles, caves and restaurants shorten their hours or close for the winter; Lascaux IV shuts for a few weeks in January. Sarlat and its Saturday market carry on all year. Check opening days before planning a valley day.

Heads up

Summer Holidays in the Dordogne

July and August are French school holidays: the valley roads, canoe bases and castle car parks fill by late morning, and Lascaux IV and Font-de-Gaume sell out days ahead. Book the caves online, start early, and book rooms well ahead.