Japan / Kyoto, Osaka & Kansai / KoyasanKoyasan
A Night in a Mountain Temple Among Ancient Graves
A plateau of over a hundred temples at 800 metres, founded by the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi) in 816 and the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Walk the 2 km of moss and cedars through Okunoin, the country's largest cemetery, to his mausoleum by lantern light, and stay in a temple lodging (shukubo) with a vegan shojin ryori dinner and the monks' morning prayers. About two hours from Osaka by Nankai train and cable car; winters are snowy and cold. The Kohechi pilgrim trail runs on over the mountains to the Kumano shrines.
Highlights
- Okunoin cemetery by lantern light
- Kobo Daishi's mausoleum
- Night in a shukubo temple lodging
- Shojin ryori vegan temple dinner
- Morning prayers and goma fire ritual
- Konpon Daito's vermilion pagoda
- Kongobu-ji's rock garden
- Ajikan meditation
Things to do
- Okunoin cemetery walk to Kobo Daishi's mausoleumAfternoon · 2h 30m
- Night tour of Okunoin with a monkEvening · 1h 30m
- Morning prayers & goma fire ritual at the temple lodgingMorning · 1h
- Danjo Garan & Kongobu-jiMorning · 2h
- Ajikan meditation sessionAfternoon · 1h
Tours & tickets
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When to go
Best time: April – November
Heads up
Rainy Season (Tsuyu)
From early June to mid or late July it rains most days, often all day, on Honshu and Kyushu: carry an umbrella, keep outdoor plans flexible, and expect landslide warnings to close mountain roads and some railways after heavy downpours. Hydrangeas are in flower and the crowds are thinner.
Heads up
Typhoon Season
Typhoons reach Kyushu and Honshu from August to October, worst in September. A direct hit stops shinkansen, flights and ferries for a day and closes sights; most pass within 24-48 hours. Check forecasts in the days before travel and keep a spare day before an international flight.
- Autumn leaves (koyo) — The maples turn red from late September in Hokkaido, through October in Nikko and the Alps, to mid-November to early December in Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo. Kyoto's temples open at night with lit-up gardens; trains, buses and hotels are as full as in cherry-blossom season.