The oldest continuously lived-in Swahili town in East Africa (UNESCO), on an island near the Somali border where donkeys and dhows still do the work of cars. Narrow lanes of coral-stone houses with carved doors run up from the waterfront; Shela, a walk or boat ride away, has the long empty beach and the smarter guesthouses. Lamu is a conservative Muslim town: dress modestly away from the beach. Fly into Manda Airport across the channel, then take a boat.
Highlights
- Lamu Old Town lanes and carved doors (UNESCO)
- Sunset dhow sail in the channel
- Shela's 12 km beach
- Lamu Fort and Museum
- Takwa ruins on Manda Island
- Swahili seafood and coconut curries
- Donkey Sanctuary
Things to do
- Lamu Old Town walk with a local guideMorning · 2h 30m
- Lamu Fort and MuseumAfternoon · 1h 30m
- Sunset dhow sailEvening · 2h 30m
- Walk to Shela beachAfternoon · 3h
- Dhow day trip to Manda Island and the Takwa ruinsMorning · 6h
Tours & tickets
Tourisma may earn a small commission if you book — it never changes your price.
When to go
Best time: November – March, July – September
Worth knowing
Long Rains on the Coast
April to June is the coast's wet season, heaviest in May: humid, with heavy downpours, rough seas and cloudy water for the reef trips. Some smaller hotels close or renovate; those open are at their cheapest.
Heads up
Travel Advisories for Mainland Lamu County
The UK advises against all but essential travel to Lamu County except Lamu and Manda islands, and the US advises against travel to Lamu County, citing attacks by al-Shabaab near the Somali border. Fly to Manda Airport rather than taking the road to Mokowe, check your government's current advice before booking, and confirm your travel insurance covers the trip.
Heads up
Christmas and New Year on the Coast
From mid-December to early January the coast fills with holidaymakers from Nairobi and Europe: hotels raise prices and set minimum stays, and flights and SGR tickets to Mombasa sell out. Book early.
- Lamu Cultural Festival — Three or four days of dhow races in the channel, donkey races along the waterfront, Swahili poetry, music and crafts. Lamu's guesthouses fill: book well ahead, and check the year's dates with the county or your hotel.
- Maulidi (the Prophet's birthday) in Lamu — Pilgrims from across East Africa come to Lamu for a week of processions, prayers and singing around Riyadha Mosque. A remarkable time to visit, and a religious one: dress conservatively and ask before photographing people. Rooms are scarce.
- Ramadan and Eid al-Fitr on the coast — In Lamu and Mombasa's Old Town many cafes close in daylight during Ramadan and the streets come alive after sunset; eat and drink discreetly in public in the day. Eid al-Fitr at the end is a public holiday with family feasts. The months move about 11 days earlier each year.