Kenya / The Coast / MombasaMombasa
Fort Jesus, the Old Town and Swahili Food on the Island
Kenya's second city and old port, on an island joined to the mainland by bridges and the Likoni ferry. The Portuguese-built Fort Jesus (UNESCO) and the narrow lanes of the Old Town show its Swahili, Arab, Portuguese and Indian past; Nyali and Bamburi to the north have the beach hotels. Mombasa's Indian community goes back over a century, with Hindu, Jain and Sikh temples and vegetarian restaurants in the centre. The Madaraka Express from Nairobi ends here, and it is the road gateway to Diani, Watamu and Tsavo.
Highlights
- Fort Jesus (UNESCO)
- Old Town lanes and carved doors
- Swahili food: biryani, pilau, mahamri and street-side cassava
- Haller Park's giraffes and tortoises
- Glass-bottom boats in the marine park off Nyali
- Dhow dinner on Tudor Creek
- The Mombasa tusks on Moi Avenue
- Jain and Swaminarayan temples
Things to do
- Fort Jesus and museumMorning · 2h
- Old Town walk with a local guideMorning · 2h
- Haller ParkAfternoon · 2h
- Swahili street food in the Old TownEvening · 2h
- Dhow dinner trip on Tudor CreekEvening · 3h
- Afternoon on Nyali or Bamburi beachAfternoon · 3h
Tours & tickets
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When to go
Best time: December – March, July – October
Worth knowing
Long Rains on the Coast
April to June is the coast's wet season, heaviest in May: humid, with heavy downpours, rough seas and cloudy water for the reef trips. Some smaller hotels close or renovate; those open are at their cheapest.
- Ramadan and Eid al-Fitr on the coast — In Lamu and Mombasa's Old Town many cafes close in daylight during Ramadan and the streets come alive after sunset; eat and drink discreetly in public in the day. Eid al-Fitr at the end is a public holiday with family feasts. The months move about 11 days earlier each year.
- Diwali · 8 Nov — Kenya's Indian community lights up the Hindu temples of Nairobi (Parklands, Westlands) and Mombasa, with fireworks and sweets shops busy for days. Visitors are welcome at the big temples.